You have to give credit to people who aren’t afraid of bold solutions to big problems, and The Proud Bird had one back in 2015. The LAX-adjacent restaurant with its famous collection of flight memorabilia and replica aircraft was unfashionably formal in style and unimaginative in cuisine. It was obvious that something needed to change.

Many restaurant operators would have gone in with Band-Aid fixes: fresh carpet, brighter paint, a new chef and hipper décor. Instead, the five-decade-old restaurant was gutted and completely re-conceptualized with a casual style and multicultural “food bazaar” featuring several separate food counters. It was a shocking transformation for an L.A. landmark, but even those who initially didn’t like the change had to applaud the ambition behind it.

There were hiccups at first, most centering on a needlessly complex ordering system that created long lines of confused people. But changes have been made and the experience is now much smoother, with hosts available to explain the process and assist first-timers.

The first stall you see as you come in is Bludso’s Barbecue, a justifiably famous outfit whose original location was in Compton. Owner Kevin Bludso’s high school prom was held at the original Proud Bird, and he was a fan of the restaurant. Given the lack of good barbecue places nearby this was bound to become an attraction, and there is nearly always action at their ordering station.

Other options include pizza, sandwiches, salads, chicken and waffles, rotisserie items and Asian fusion bowls. The range isn’t immediately obvious, so diners are advised to wander around and scope them all out before deciding.

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